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How to Cut a Hinge Recess with a Chisel | Step 3 of 55 (Beginner Woodworking Basics)

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How to Cut a Hinge Recess with a Chisel | Step 3 of 55 (Beginner Woodworking Basics)

Part of the 55 Cuts & Joints for Beginners series.

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If your hinge recesses keep ending up uneven, too deep, or not sitting flush, this step-by-step guide will help. In this lesson, you’ll learn how to cut an open recess for a hinge using a chisel — one of the most common and practical carpentry skills.

This is a foundational cut used when fitting doors, frames, and hardware, so it’s well worth practising properly.

🎯 Aim of the Lesson

To learn how to mark out, cut, and check a hinge recess accurately so the hinge sits flush with the timber.

📺 Watch the Video Lesson

How to Cut a Hinge Recess with a Chisel | Step 3 of 55 (Beginner Woodworking Basics)

🧰 Tools & Resources

  • Bevel edge chisel (wide enough for hinge)
  • Wooden mallet
  • Combination marking gauge
  • Combination square
  • Pencil or marking knife
  • Rule or tape measure
  • Clamps
  • Workbench
  • Bench vice
  • Practice timber (softwood)
  • Hinge (for marking out)
  • Sharpening equipment

🪚 Step-by-Step: How to Cut a Hinge Recess

Step 1: Understand the Hinge Recess

A hinge recess is an open recess cut into the edge of the timber so the hinge sits flush. Only the flange of the hinge is recessed — not the barrel.

Step 2: Secure the Timber

Place the timber in a bench vice to hold it steady while marking out.

Step 3: Set the Depth

Use the hinge to set your marking gauge or combination square to the correct depth — the thickness of the hinge flange.

Step 4: Mark the Depth Line

Run the marking gauge along the timber edge, keeping the block tight against the face side. This creates a clean, parallel line.

Add photo here: Depth line marked with marking gauge.

Step 5: Mark the Length of the Hinge

Place the hinge on the timber and mark the top and bottom using a square or directly from the hinge.

Step 6: Mark the Waste Area

Clearly mark the waste section so you know exactly what needs to be removed.

Step 7: Clamp the Timber to the Bench

Move the timber from the vice and clamp it flat onto the workbench — ideally over a bench leg for maximum stability.

Step 8: Make Initial Stop Cuts

Using a mallet, make a stop cut about 8–10mm away from the line. This prevents splitting and gives you control.

Step 9: Work from the Opposite End

Repeat the process from the other end, again staying away from the line.

Step 10: Remove the Bulk of the Waste

Tilt the chisel slightly (around 75–80°) and work along the recess, removing material gradually.

Take small cuts — don’t try to remove everything at once.

Step 11: Clean Out the Recess

Switch to controlled hand pressure (no mallet) and begin refining the cut.

Keep your hands behind the chisel and maintain control at all times.

Step 12: Work Back to the Lines

Carefully trim back toward your marked lines, staying just inside the waste side.

Aim for straight edges and a consistent depth.

Step 13: Check the Fit

Place the hinge into the recess and check:

  • Is it sitting flush?
  • Is the depth correct?
  • Are the edges clean?

Make small adjustments if needed.

Step 14: Final Clean-Up

Tidy up the edges and corners. The base doesn’t need to be perfectly smooth, but the hinge must sit flat.

⚠️ Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Cutting directly on the line too early
  • Not keeping the marking gauge block tight to the edge
  • Using a chisel that’s too narrow
  • Cutting too deep too quickly
  • Holding the timber instead of clamping it
  • Letting the chisel slip toward your hand

✅ Key Tip

Always start away from the line and work back to it. This gives you far more control and helps avoid overcutting.

💬 Let Me Know in the Comments

Did your hinge sit flush first time, or did you need to adjust it? Let me know how you got on.


❓ Quick Quiz

  • Why do you only cut the hinge flange and not the barrel?
  • Why should you start cutting away from the line?
  • What happens if your recess is too deep?

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